Walter’s: A Tale Of Fried Chicken

How much should expectations weigh on your impression of a restaurant? Is it fair to grade on a curve?

I walked into Walter’s, on the southwest corner of DeKalb Avenue and Cumberland Street, early on a week night with my breath baited for its vaunted menu of American comfort food staples. The restaurant was already crowded, as I’d been told to expect. However, my dining companion and I were quickly seated and the service was immediate and excellent.

Walter’s recently became home to a “hidden” Japanese speakeasy named Karasu, located in the back of the premises. Walter’s also has a sister restaurant in Williamsburg called Walter Foods, but it’s the Fort Greene location that I’ve heard so much about. Walter’s has earned plaudits from Fodor’s, celebrity chef Ted Allen, and most importantly, the Focus itself.

The fried chicken ($18) at Walter’s is as mythic as Liberty Valance, and I decided to order it when I saw how many other tables had made the same decision. It’s served with garlic mashed potatoes and a side of sweet and spicy honey.

I bit into the crunchy chicken and I immediately understood what some of the fuss was about. This is great fried chicken, but it is not transcendent fried chicken. The chicken was moist, juicy, and flavorful and the honey only heightened the indulgent nature of the dish by bringing out the flavor.

“This is such good fried chicken,” declared my dining partner after she stole an extra bite of my chicken.

The mashed potatoes were terrific. They provide a creamy, garlicky rejoinder to the fried chicken’s heaviness.

The grilled salmon ($24), served with kale and beet relish, was similarly very good. My dining partner mentioned that it seemed like the healthiest thing on the menu, but I’d recommend it on its piquancy alone.

The salmon was rich but not unctuous and the kale cut it well. The tomatoes deserve special mention for being delectably refreshing. My dining companion was effusive in her praise, and she ate with gusto.

This was my first visit to Walter’s, and it was good cause to go back. The fried chicken is very good, even if I wouldn’t quite call it legendary. The salmon is even better. I’ve heard the brunch at Walter’s is truly great, and I want to see if the rumors are true.

Walter’s
Address: 166 DeKalb Avenue, at the intersection of Cumberland Street
Phone: (718) 488–7800
Try: The fried chicken. It’s practically the John Cena of poultry.
Avoid: Nothing.
Kids: Fried chicken!