Lunch Break: Tacos & Tortas From Mex Deli

The unassuming Mex Deli Grocery (1625 Cortelyou Rd at E 17th St) is hard to discern from the street. You can’t see much through the windows, which are blocked from the inside by shelving, and in at least one window, a large menu board announcing some of the things you can get inside — including tacos and tortas.

The tacos are available stuffed with a variety of meats, and all come topped with chopped onions and cilantro, with radishes, limes, and a salsa verde on the side. For 3-inch tacos, they’re pricey at $2.50, and for the time it takes for them to be ready if you’re ordering more than one type of filling (they’re definitely made to order), they might not be the best option for tacos in the neighborhood. The star here is the salsa verde, which is deceptively mellow at first, then packs a great bunch of heat at the back.

A better choice is the torta (between $6-8). Loaded with the filling of your choice, it’s got the expected layer of beans spread along the bottom, plus avocado, cheese, tomatoes, onions, lettuce, pickled jalapeños, and mayo. The bread is one of the better versions of torta sandwich bread that you’ll find in the area — crunchy on the outside and soft inside, though thin — even if it’s not the best we’ve ever had. Again, the fillings are made to order, so there can be a bit of a wait, but it’s a tasty sandwich for the price.

Because of the wait, it might be best to call ahead, then go pick up your order: 718-856-2125.

It is just a deli, so yes, you do have to take your food to go. And if you’re not looking for prepared food, this is a pretty excellent source of all kinds of Mexican specialty products, from spices and sauces (try the mole) to molinillos and molcajetes.