Huarache Genius! Taqueria Tepango Is Worth The Journey

To wax philosophical for a moment, I buy that life is about the journey, trying new things, and all those platitudes. However, sometimes I run into a plate that I want to replay. This is the story of the first time I went to Taqueria Tepango but spoiler alert: I am already planning my return.

Taqueria Tepango occupies an unassuming mid-block storefront on 568 Myrtle Avenue, between Classon Avenue and Emerson Place. Inside, the decor is spartan, though your eyes will naturally drift to the back, where a pair of refrigerators carry all manner of Mexican soft drinks.

“You want good food, you gotta pay the money,” said Martha Marin, an employee of the restaurant and the scion of its owner, about a menu in which prices are exceedingly reasonable. She said she has been working at Tepango for four or five years, and said it’s been in business for about a decade.

Marin said the burritos are the top seller, and that matched what I observed, as a mostly young crowd came through.

“I come here often and I always get a spicy chicken burrito, but tonight I got two chicken tacos,” said Violet, a student who lives nearby.

I asked my server what to get and she steered me to a combination platter. The menu is expansive, and there are tongue tacos that I fully intend to try the next time I go.

I went with the Combo Cancun ($12), which includes a cheese huarache and a cheese quesadilla, as well as rice and beans.

As I waited for my entrée, I had chips and salsa and they were spectacular. The chips were warm and fresh, thick and crunchy. While the tomato salsa was good and carried some heat, the salsa verde was outstanding. It was crisp, thick, and just a bit spicy. It might be the best salsa verde I have ever had.

It wasn’t long before my main course came. Two platefuls of food were placed in front of me. Anybody who goes to Taqueria Tepango should bring their appetite.

The massive huarache was cheesy and creamy, with iceberg lettuce for crunch and plenty of rich black beans to add additional heft. This alone could have made for a meal.

The second plate featured a quesadilla that was smaller in size, joined by the rice and beans. The quesadilla was also cheesy, warm, and deeply satisfying. However, it was the black beans, this time on their own, which stood out. They were earthy and filling without being too overpowering.

I regret having spent thirty years on this watery rock without having gone to Taqueria Tepango. It will immediately join my rotation. There’s a big menu, and I need to try all of it during this journey.

Taqueria Tepango
Address: 568 Myrtle Avenue, between Classon Avenue and Emerson Place
Phone: (718) 636-8878
Try: Anything. Burritos are the top seller. The super taco looked amazing but I didn’t get to try it.
Avoid: Nothing.
Kids: They’ll love it, but be warned that it can get a bit spicy.
$10 card minimum