Tyler Kord Talks Surprise Accolades, An Anniversary Fish Fry & Hopes For The Next 30 Years At No. 7
When No. 7 head chef and co-owner Tyler Kord first opened six years ago, his expectations were decidedly measured.
“I just expected, we’re going to be a neighborhood restaurant and I bet we’d do well,” Tyler says. “I wanted to do a super comfortable nice neighborhood restaurant but with food that didn’t entirely make sense.”
But it turned out there were some surprises in store for the French Culinary Institute graduate and veteran of Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Perry St, who will be marking No. 7’s sixth birthday with a fish fry this at 9:30m this Friday, September 5.
Barely a month after opening No. 7 (7 Greene Avenue between Fulton Street and South Oxford Place), Tyler and co received positive write-ups in both the New York Times and the New Yorker. In the latter, Andrea Thompson praised Tyler’s self-described “casual badass” approach to cooking and “complicated dishes executed with an effortless air.”
The accolades were far beyond anything Tyler had anticipated–and they kept on coming. In September 2009, Bon Appétit declared No. 7 one of the ten best new restaurants in the country.
It was a stunning honor—one that Tyler had a little trouble grasping. An editor from Bon Appétit had been in touch asking for a recipe, but Tyler had figured it was for a small writeup.
“And then at some point along the line,” Tyler recalled, “he said something about it being the ‘best of.’ I still didn’t totally understand until I actually physically got [the magazine] in my hands and it said ‘Ten Best New Restaurants.’ It just didn’t make any sense.”
But for those familiar with Kord’s innovative and high-risk recipes, the award was more than well deserved. His take on broccoli alone warrants the recognition–No. 7’s fried broccoli appetizer includes grapefruit, dill, and black beans, and their double decker broccoli tacos are stuffed with fried shallots, beans, and feta cheese. Tyler and his team have transformed something that most eat out of a sense of duty into a delicious guilty pleasure.
Still–rave reviews and Tyler’s undeniable culinary chops aside–success for No. 7 was never assured.
“It’s been really hard,” he acknowledges. “And I can see why so many people fail. I probably should have failed many times over if not for the help of lots and lots of people.”
Six years on, Tyler has enjoyed the ride and is thankful for No. 7’s success. Making the achievement all the sweeter is that he has been able to accomplish it on his home turf.
“It’s been incredibly fun,” he says. “I’ve lived in this neighborhood since I’ve lived in New York. I just can’t imagine doing it anywhere else.”
He decided to celebrate No. 7’s sixth birthday this Friday with a fish fry, because, he says, “That sounded like something that we should do on an anniversary. It sounded fun and I called in some buddies to help out.”
Jonathan Wu of Fung Tu will be on hand to cook dinner with Tyler, and pastry chef Brooks Headley of Del Posto will prepare the desserts.
“I actually still don’t know what he’s making,” Tyler says. “But I’m sure it’ll be awesome.”
As for the future, Tyler and his partners are busy revamping No. 7 Sub–a sandwich shop they opened in Greenpoint–which will be rechristened No. 7 North in the near future. And he hopes to keep Fort Greene’s No. 7 going for decades to come.
“What would be cooler than coming here 30 years from now and having dinner?” he says. “I would love to!”
If you’d like to stop in for No. 7’s fish fry this weekend, you can learn more and make a reservation here. Otherwise, stop in during regular hours (dinner 5:30-11pm Tuesday through Saturday and 4-9pm on Sunday, plus brunch 12-3pm Saturdays and Sundays) and wish Tyler and his crew many more years to come.
By Paul McCaffrey