Samui Brings Modern & Traditional Thai Cuisine To Fort Greene

Fort Greene is known for its diverse culinary scene that features a broad range of Meditteranean, Mexican, Italian, and Japanese cuisines to name a few. But newcomer Samui (15 Vanderbilt Ave.) brings North Thailand to the neighborhood with one mission: transporting its guests to the region through its rich, savory authentic dishes while keeping its traditional roots with a modern twist.

The Fort Greene Focus sat down with Samui chef and owner who goes by the name A Napadol before the restaurant’s grand Brooklyn opening on August 17. She gave us the scoop on Samui’s menu, her humble upbringing in Northeast Thailand, and Samui’s fall ventures topped with a restaurant tour.

“It’s been my dream for more than 10 years to open a restaurant,” Napadol said. She moved from Manhattan to Williamsburg in search for restaurant space and found herself selecting a warehouse in Fort Greene as Samui’s home in 2014.

“I loved the brick work and the industrial look, so I took the space,” she said.

In the midst of gentrification, the area served as a medical supply warehouse, but when Napadol purchased it with her husband music producer Hani Albader, she vowed to turn it into a modern sanctuary for guest to relax under dim lighting and soft toned furniture color.

But of course, keeping customers satisfied through South Asian food has always been Napadol’s top priority. She named the restaurant after the Samui island in Thailand, a place she praised for its “relaxed” lifestyle and scrumptious cuisine made with fresh ingredients.

“I want to create a restaurant where people can afford to come more than once a month,” Napadol said. “I want to bring the luscious island and culture of Thailand to Brooklyn.”

Humble beginnings in Thailand

Born in Northeast Thailand, Napadol grew up on a farm in Roi Et province where her family grew rice in the fields. Her grandmother owned a restaurant back home, and during her childhood, Napadol spent quality time with her in the kitchen.

“I learned how to cook from her,” Napadol said.

Napadol said her grandmother spent her entire day cooking to open her business at 4 p.m. until closing at 6 p.m. daily. “She just wanted to cook the food, and sell it to go,” she said.

Napadol’s grandmother developed arthritis in her hands, and she became her cooking assistant soon after. She recalled going to the grocery store together to pick up ingredients and carried the items home where Napadol would it cut up for her.

“My grandmother told me what to sauté, what to cook at what temperature, and what spices to use,” Napadol said of the skills her grandmother embedded in her and those she uses today.

On the menu

Napadol said she doesn’t want to do just Thai food. “Everyone wants more than just Thai food,” Napadol said, who incorporates other South Asian flavors to cater the community’s diverse palate.

“Sometimes people prefer to eat different foods, and when they come here I want them to be able to choose what suits them,” she said.

Napadol and her chefs use local products from Brooklyn and products like basil and water lily — essentials in Thai dishes — found in Asian markets in Queens.

Samui serves up organic chicken, and grass-fed meat, Napadol said. Some appetizers on the menu include steamy edamame ($5), curry puff ($6), and black potato fritters ($8). The main platters range from $12 to $32.  A 36-ounce juicy Peter Luger t-bone steak for two people is $92, and the crispy red snapper with mango salad and tamarind sauce Napadol calls Samui’s “signature piece,” is $32.

Other dishes on the menu include Pad Thai ($12) with homemade sauce, Tom Kha Kai soup ($8) — a customer favorite — and grilled steak salad with spices and mint ($15), and a variety of curries ($19).

Keeping cultural roots through food

“The roots make you feel safe, it grounds you, and helps you realize who you are,” Napadol said of the importance of holding onto cultural traditions.

“Our food is new Thai, but traditional,” she said. Napadol modernizes recipes by cooking with less sauce to enhance the taste, so it doesn’t overpower the fresh products in the dish.

“Let it shine,” Napadol said. “The food itself has good ingredients, you don’t need a lot of sauce.”

And with good quality food comes upbeat music. So, what’s on Samui’s playlist? “Everything from World, house, Spanish, relaxed vibes, Brazilian, to classic 60s and 70s music,” Napadol said. “It depends on the time of night.”

The room itself has a built-in surround system appropriate for a party setting for customers to enjoy company while devouring on flavorful cocktails and food.

“I want people to have a good time,” Napadol said.

What’s next for Samui?

Napadol said she plans to have another grand opening for Samui with a ribbon-cutting ceremony in October, as well as opening a cafe in the front starting at 7 a.m. serving coffee from Colombian based company Devoción and croissants from Balthazar, a French restaurant in Manhattan. Brunch will also be available in the fall, Napadol said.

Overall, what does Napadol want her customers to take away when they leave Samui after their meal? “Take out,” Napadol chuckled.

“Some people who travel to get here want to order to go,” Napadol said. “If they do that, I’m super happy.”

Samui
Where: 15 Vanderbilt Ave. (Flushing Avenue)
Hours: Monday to Thursday: 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 5:30 p.m. to 1 a.m., Sunday, 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Contact: (917) 909-1032, samuibrooklyn.com