Not Ray’s: In Praise Of The Working Slice

Not Ray’s: In Praise Of The Working Slice
(Courtesy Fort Greene Focus/Justin Fox)
Love can be cheesy. (Courtesy Fort Greene Focus/Justin Fox)

Does a corner slice place need to be on a corner?

Not Ray’s of 694 Fulton Street has doling out all manner of slices to Fort Greene from its current location, nestled in the middle of the block between South Portland Avenue and Cuyler Gore Park, for at least a quarter century.

“We sell the same thing for over 25 years. We try not to change too much. The neighborhood is changing, but we have the same food, same pizza,” said Dema.

This is what a pizza place looks like in your mind's eye, right? (Courtesy Instagram/Not Ray's Pizza)
This is what a pizza place looks like in your mind’s eye, right? (Courtesy Instagram/Not Ray’s Pizza)

Not Ray’s finished fourth in our upcoming pizza smackdown, and most of the places ahead of it are pedigreed pizza joints that make magnificent pies.

I don’t think Not Ray’s is the best slice in Fort Greene or Clinton Hill. However, it is the slice I get the most often, after a long night at Alibi or just after (or during) a particularly grueling work day… or if I’m just passing by.

"You try to get fancy, you mess up," said Nick Dema of his pizza. (Courtesy Fort Greene Focus/Justin Fox.)
“You try to get fancy, you mess up,” said Nick Dema of his pizza. (Courtesy Fort Greene Focus/Justin Fox.)

“New York-style slices is one of the best slices you can buy,” said Nick Dema, the scion of Not Ray’s who has worked there for 28 years.

Not Ray’s plain cheese slice ($3) is exactly what you’d expect and that’s precisely the point. It’s a damn decent slice. It’s cheesy and gooey, with some crunch to the crust and a sauce that’s not too sweet. Liberally apply garlic or red pepper or parmesan as needed.

My go-to order. (Courtesy Fort Greene Focus/Justin Fox)
My go-to order. (Courtesy Fort Greene Focus/Justin Fox)

Like any good corner slice shop, Not Ray’s has a cornucopia of slices at your beck and call. Nick said the stuffed meat slice ($4.25) is a best-seller. There’s also a whole wheat veggie slice ($3.75), Grandma pizza ($3.75), lasagna pizza ($3.75), and there’s are even chicken rolls ($5.50) and, of course, the ubiquitous garlic knots ($1.25).

There’s also the bruschetta slice ($3.75).

This is the slice I’ll order if I see it when I pop by. It verges on too cheesy, but I’m a sucker for the bruschetta. The tomatoes cut the cheese, while the dough absorbs the sauce and the whole thing melds together into a calorie bomb par excellence.

I mean, if you want to. (Courtesy Fort Greene Focus/Justin Fox)
I mean, if you want to. (Courtesy Fort Greene Focus/Justin Fox)

Amidst all this change, what does the future hold for Not Ray’s?

Nick, who used to live in the neighborhood, didn’t rule out future expansion.

“Maybe in the future there will be more,” said Nick, before adding “…down the line.”

But the big question remains: how did they settle on Not Ray’s in a city full of Ray’s Pizza? “You’ll have to ask my father about that,” said Nick.

Not Ray’s
Address: 694 Fulton Street, between South Portland Avenue and Cuyler Gore Park
Phone: (917) 330-2400
Try: A regular cheese slice.
Avoid: Don’t get any big ideas.
Kids: They’ll even cut the pizza into little pieces.
$10 Card Minimum