Bite Of The Day: Uzbeki Dumplings At Samir Restaurant
Today, led by a hankering for dumplings, I wandered into Samir Restaurant, the Uzbek and Russian spot that debuted in April on Coney Island Avenue.
Uzbek and Russian dishes fill the menu ranging between $7 and $30 — some of them without English descriptions like khalisa, plov, and golubtcy — plus some that I could figure out like kebabs, boiled dumplings, herring with boiled potatoes, cow tongue, and feta with lemon. Check out the full menu here.
I ordered two of the smaller dishes, thinking I’d be in for a light lunch, but was surprised by how satisfied I felt after two mini plates.
My tomato salad ($5.99) — or pappery, as it says on the menu — arrived as a heaping pile of tomato, cucumber, and onion slices seasoned with scallions, black peppercorns, and sprigs of dill. It was incredibly flavorful for a plate of raw vegetables.
For my dumpling-tooth, I ordered the Mantes ($7.50), which owner Danny Azizov assured me were similar to my first choice, the boiled dumplings (that had just been sold out).
Even though the entree took almost 30 minutes to arrive, it was worth the wait. The thin, papery casing pinched at the top and melted at the bottom where the juices had soaked through. Inside, beef and lamb meat added a chewy, dense filling sprinkled with pieces of translucent onion. The yogurt dipping sauce added a tangy and cooling flavor, topped off with the smooth dill garnish.
Lingering over my salad and waiting for the Mantes was relaxing, punctuating a busy day with the quiet, semi-dark atmosphere inside Samir. For a late, mid-week lunch I was the only customer in the restaurant and took a table overlooking the bustle on Coney Island Avenue. (Though I hear the place fills up for dinner!)
Samir’s owner Danny Azizov was welcoming from the moment I walked in. He moved to the U.S. a few years ago from the ancient Uzbeki city of Samarkand, which is located on the Silk Road — the famous trade route linking China to the Mediterranean. Azizov introduced me to the newest member of the Samir team — head chef and neighbor Boutur.
Boutur hails from Uzbekistan, where he was a chef for 30 years — a clear expert in the kitchen, based on the delicious meal I had just enjoyed.
Stop in and enjoy an Uzbeki meal at Samir Restaurant seven days a week for lunch and dinner, at 696 Coney Island Avenue between Cortelyou Road and Avenue C. They’re open from 10am to 10pm, or call for delivery at (347) 318-3010. Though Yelp says they take credit cards, today they were cash only so don’t show up empty-handed (the nearest ATM is a long avenue away.)
