The Bite: A Branzini To Savor At Istanbul Restaurant

THE BITE: A delicious meal must be eaten — every last bit. And the char-grilled Branzini at Istanbul Restaurant will have you picking through the bones to search for every little bite of buttery flesh.

There a few things more eye-catching than seeing a whole-cooked fish carried through a restaurant. And that’s how Istanbul presents the Branzini, also called Akdeniz Levregi at this Turkish eatery. Below the crispy skin is the white, flaky flesh — succulent hunks of meat that grab onto your fork and ride almost eagerly off the plate. Disclaimer: There are bones, which stand up in your mouth like little traffic cops urging you to slow down and enjoy the flavor. Served with romaine lettuce and a side salad, this $22.95 dish is a wonderful summer meal.

The restaurant also offers several chilled appetizers to compliment a hot summer evening. I chose the Patlican Salatasi ($6.95), a fresh stew of charcoal-grilled eggplant, tomatoes, peppers, and garlic. The chunky spread is full of ripe, earthy flavors with just a hint of spice that lingers after each bite.

Istanbul Restaurant, located at 1715 Emmons Avenue, has outdoor seating with a view of the bay, the perfect place to enjoy a seafood feast. However, the dining room provides equally intriguing ambiance. Folk instruments, antique ornaments, and brilliant oil paintings decorate the walls, providing the impression that you’re in a seaside cabin overlooking the Marmara Sea.

Istanbul Restaurant, 1715 Emmons Avenue, between Sheepshead Bay Road and East 16th Street, 718-368-3587. Open 11am until 11pm daily.

The Bite is Sheepshead Bites’ column exploring the foodstuffs of the Sheepshead Bay area. Each week we check out a different offering from one of the many restaurants, delis, food carts, bakeries, butchers, fish mongers, or grocers in our neighborhood. If it’s edible, we’ll take a bite.