Pequeña Comes Up Big

You know those places that you always walk by and think “oh, I need to try that place one of these days”? Where you see people laughing and eating plates of enticing food? Pequeña is one of those for me.

I was joined by my usual dining partner when I walked into Pequeña (86 South Portland Avenue between Lafayette Avenue and Fulton Street) on a summer afternoon seeking something familiar.

“We have a lot of regulars who work in the neighborhood and have been here for many, many years,” said Mina, who has been a server at Pequeña for three years. Mina said Pequeña has been around for about 12 years and it shares ownership with Olea.

That’s what I was hoping to hear. We ordered a pair of lunch specials and I splurged (an extra $1.50) for both pico de gallo and guac with my chips.

The chips came dusted with paprika. They’re crunchy and thick and would hold up well to anything. Mina told us the nachos were standout and while I didn’t order them, I’d believe it.

The pico was different than what you usually get — this was rough cut, but sweet, fresh and a bit fragrant. It’s really good.

The guac is heavy, rich and while not as different as the pico de gallo, it is precisely the well-worn flavor I wanted.

My friend ordered the fried fish tacos ($12.) She liked them well enough, though she wasn’t blown away. She found them a bit unwieldy due to the very generous chunks of fish, but enjoyed the flavor.

“Fishy in a good way,” said my friend. I agreed. These aren’t gourmet fare, but they’re spot-hitters for sure. The tacos were joined by heaping helpings of black beans and rice which don’t deviate too far from the expected.

“My favorite thing on the menu are the sautéed fish tacos,” said Mina. I need to try them when I go back.

About the chicken burrito ($12)…. I have a pretty substantial appetite, but I couldn’t finish this monster. It came with a smoky salsa atop it and a significant portion of guac on the side.

I tore into the burrito to discover really great chicken. The rice and beans aren’t special, but they’re ok. The lettuce was crisp and refreshing. This was a perfectly good burrito. I tried to eat it and yadda, yadda, yadda, I had leftovers.

I intend to go back for more. According to Mina, the nachos, enchiladas, and margaritas are among customer favorites. I’ll try them all in due time.

I came to Pequeña seeking something familiar and flavorful, and I received that in literal abundance. This is a good neighborhood Mexican joint without the pretense of being something more.

Pequeña
Address: 86 South Portland Avenue between Lafayette Avenue and Fulton Street
Phone: (718) 643-0000
Try: The fish tacos. The chips and pico de gallo are great, too.
Avoid: There’s nothing worth avoiding, but the rice isn’t great.
Kids: Obvi.
CASH ONLY