Meet Your New Neighborhood Sake Sommelier: Toshiyuki Koizumi Of Wasan

Last month, Wasan joined the neighborhood at 440 Bergen Street, bringing with it high expectations. Its original East Village restaurant is Michelin-recommended, and the owners intend to bring the same minimalist and elegant dishes to their Brooklyn spot.

“Wasan” is a Japanese word that translates roughly to “three partners.” We had an opportunity to discuss the new outpost with one of those partners, owner and sommelier Toshiyuki Koizumi, who refers to himself as “Toshi.” During our conversation, we spoke not only about the food, but learned about Koizumi’s devotion to sake.

Koizumi is considered an expert in the sake field. He was a finalist at the World Sake Competition in the New York region, and as of 2014, he is one of only 326 “International Sake Sommeliers” in the world.

Koizumi describes the food at Wasan as “Kaiseki-style,” which consists of “high-end small tapas with extremely seasonal ingredients,” he says. “We purchase our vegetables at the Green Market in Union Square, and use rice bran vinegar in our dishes.”

But when you ask him about sake, Koizumi’s eyes really brighten up.

“I searched for the perfect brewery for a long time, and found a small one in Japan that is able to create an incredible homemade sake,” he explains. “I think the best sake does not have too big of an aroma, has a soft touch on the tongue, has a lot of layers — and is somewhat complicated.”

While the new restaurant does not have a liquor license just yet, he expects to be able to serve sake, wine, shōchū, and whiskey by October.

Koizumi is as comfortable speaking about Wasan’s dishes as he is about sake. He quickly recommends the Wasan Fried Chicken ($9.50), which he describes as a dish that uses “black vinegar sauce and garlic chips.”

Another Wasan specialty is Tuna Karashimiso-ae ($12.50), which places tuna in an “orange cup,” with avocado and a miso mustard sauce.

And then there’s the signature dish called the Uni Lover ($7 per piece) that Koizumi admits “may not look very good.” But he thinks customers will be up to the challenge. “It’s a wonderful combination of garlic chips, avocado, and sea urchin in a dark peanut sauce.”

“And of course, you have to try our homemade pickles,” he says.

Wasan hosts a series of exciting events at their Lower East Side restaurant that we hope they will bring to our neighborhood, including cooking classes and sake seminars.

“I’m looking forward to getting to know the neighborhood,” says Koizumi. “The food styles are so diverse and the chefs are very talented. We want to get to know everyone.”

The Rundown: Wasan Brooklyn
Where: 440 Bergen Street between 5th and Flatbush Avenues
Phone: 347-725-3550
Hours: Tuesday-Sundays, 6pm-10:30pm; closed on Mondays