Food Stuffs: Sweet & Crumbly Empanadas At El Pollo III

Food Stuffs is a column exploring the gastronomic landscape of Bensonhurst and the surrounding neighborhoods. Each entry will cover anything and everything remotely related to food. Because here in Bensonhurst, food is always news.

Warning: Don’t go to El Pollo III on 18th Avenue unless you are ravenous enough to consume a three-course meal.

Having eaten a rather hearty breakfast, I made the mistake of entering the Puruvian joint, located at 8603 18th Avenue, while only mildly hungry. Most of the menu, which includes various styles of decadent looking seafood, steak, and chicken dishes, accompanied by rice, fried noodles, potatoes and vegetables, looked incredibly hearty and delicious. As we’ve noted before, Peruvian cuisine is known for its complex range of flavors and incredibly diverse influences, from China to Spain, so it can be tempting to try everything.

Since I was only up for a snack, I ordered “Rubin’s famous empanadas” ($7.50), which includes two bloated, beef-stuffed pastries, served with a side of salad and some hot sauce.

But first, let’s talk ambiance. El Pollo offers a sun-lit, festively decorated, casual dining space that is bursting with energy and charm. Exposed brick and a steel pipe running across the ceiling lend the room a subtly industrial feel, warmed by yellow and mud colored paint and shelves lined with ancient-looking South American knick knacks. Festive decorations draped from the ceiling and fresh flowers also add a nice touch. There is ample seating and Telemundo plays on a corner television.

The food is not to shabby either. El Pollo’s empanada shells were doughier than I expected, but also sweet and buttery, like a pie crust. A little Google research revealed that Peruvian empanada are coated with sugar. No wonder. The deep brown, crumbly beef filling was deeply flavored with cumin, herbs, peruvian spices, and little cubes of what tasted like pork. The fresh salad with vinaigrette was a light complement to the bread-y empanada, while the hot sauce and fresh lime added an extra layer of flavor.

Two other things worth noting about El Pollo are its family-friendliness and affordable menu options. For just $20, you can order a whole chicken and three sides — enough to feed a family of four or six, according to the menu. Sounds like a pretty good deal if you have little mouths to feed. Overall, El Pollo offers high-quality, casual Peruvian fare which is perfect for dining alone or with a crowd.

Visit El Pollo III at 8603 18th Avenue or call (718) 331-3124. Also, check ’em out on Yelp.