Dining Review: Hibino Hits And Misses But Mostly Hits

Sometimes, we make ourselves sick with stress. Wonder why? Given my steady diet of comfort food, I needed some nourishment. Given my congestion, I wanted powerful flavors.

Hibino (333 Henry Street, between Atlantic Avenue and Pacific Street) is a Japanese restaurant in Cobble Hill with a unique twist, that offers obanzai, or Japanese small plates (think tapas). I was joined by a dining partner on this excursion.

“The portions are very, very generous,” said our waiter. He steered me towards the beef kakuni. My dining partner couldn’t decide between the chicken and the salmon, until our server declared the salmon plainly better. We both made our dinners “specials” for an additional $6, which added miso soup, rice, and the chef’s choice of mini-obanzai. We also ordered the mackerel special as an appetizer.

The miso soup came out quickly and hit the spot immediately. This thick, soulful broth was nourishing and soothed my aching throat while opening up my sinuses (and thus palette.)

Just as quickly came our entrees. My beef kakuni ($20) consisted of three large hunks of short rib alongside two big piles of tofu and a mix of greens, all swimming ankle-deep in a rich broth.

For the most part, the beef was exceptionally tender, if a bit bland. However, there were a few very, very chewy bites. While well done, I wouldn’t call the beef well-done.

However, the tofu was silken and delicious. One might even say “killer.” This housemade dish was as good as any I have ever had.

The greens were springy, and a welcome foil to the maudlin clomp of the beef. Moreover, their crunch also matched the soft tofu’s brilliance.

My dining partner ordered the salmon miso zuke ($17), which she liked more than I did. She found it to be some of the best she’d had, praising its silken texture and subtle flavor. I thought it was very good, but also not especially unique. It was moist and soft, but a bit muted.

Both our dinners were paired with the tuna macaroni salad obanzai, which would make for a lovely picnic accompaniment, but did not pair especially well with either of our meals. The tasty, cold tuna marked this dish.

Our dinners also came with white rice, which was chewy and pleasant, but we agreed was utterly bland.

The broiled hokke mackerel ($5), on the other hand, was genuinely spectacular. This appetizer was served alongside our entrees and outshone them significantly. It was salty, not a bit fishy, and deeply flavorful.

For dessert, we splurged on the soymilk pudding. Though it was served artfully in a glass cup, the pudding looked and tasted like mayonnaise. Spare yourself.

While my venture to Hibino was an up and down affair, the highs were significantly better than the lows. The fish and tofu, in particular, stand out as excellent. Moreover, there is an extensive sushi menu which I need to sample. So, I’ll be back and I suggest you head over, too.

The Restaurant Rundown: Hibino
Address: 333 Henry Street, between Atlantic Avenue and Pacific Street
Phone: 718-260-8052
Try: The killer tofu. Anything involving fish.
Avoid: The soymilk pudding and the beef kikune.
Kids: Of course!