Dining Review: The Curious Tex-Mex Menu Mashup Of El Habanero
The line between what is considered Mexican cuisine and “Tex-Mex” cuisine has been blurred for some time now. If you’re not a culinary connoisseur of all things “South of the Border,” “Texan,” or “Southwestern” for that matter, you may not be able to tell much of a difference. And the Mex v. Tex-Mex question continues to be a subject of debate among the chefs and food experts.
El Habanero Tex-Mex (315 5th Avenue at 3rd Street) opened in late January, filling the digs of the former ‘SNice restaurant, which closed back in December 2014.
The vegetarian and vegan cafe had been dishing up delicious sandwiches, burritos, and more, while also serving as a meeting spot for friends, parents, and MS 51 students since 2008, an offshoot of the first space in the West Village — though that location closed in the Spring of 2014.
So it was with great curiosity for many who wondered what would fill the void after a year of dormancy. The space features prime 5th Avenue real estate, sporting a corner outdoor dining area that hits the sweet spot on a warm day.
I admit being a bit surprised when the “coming soon” sign for El Habanero showed up in September, as our neighborhood is in no way lacking for this cuisine.
We had a chance to stop in on a warm afternoon to sample the fare, and my response to the meal is rather mixed.
The interior is laid out well, and the bar area takes the place of the counter space area used at ‘sNice. And of course, the outdoor area is spacious and comfy. The Park Slope neighborhood passed by, including a group of MS 51 students trying to determine if Sybil liked Jaden (names changed to spare the innocents in puppy love).
The menu is curious, and I admittedly scratched my head at some of the offerings. In addition to the normal fare of tacos, burritos, and fajitas, there’s a full burger section. The five options include Cheeseburger Sliders ($10) and a Sriracha Ace Burger ($11) topped with — among other items — crispy wontons and bacon.
Look, kids dig burgers, so one can argue the diversity of the menu could cater to those who are not fans of Tex-Mex, or are picky eaters. And although I’m no purist, the selections made me wonder about the focus of the restaurant.
I opted to go with the Tex-Mex fare, and was served a bowl of chips to start out. The chips were dry — too much so — but the salsa that came with was fine. Perhaps on the sweeter side than I’d like, but that’s a taste thing.
The Shrimp Tacos ($12 for two) are topped with a cilantro-green onion slaw, sauteed pico de gallo, and habanero aioli.
The sides choices include rice & beans, french fries, sweet potato fries, and salad. For me, I simply can’t get behind fries with tacos.
However, the tacos were soft, and the shrimp toppings flavorful. Once again, the dish was perhaps on the sweet side, and I would have preferred a spicier kick. That said, hot sauce is provided.
I found the service to be very friendly and present. It was a quiet Monday afternoon, and I enjoyed lingering in the outdoor area quite a bit.
I want to root more for El Habanero, but I’m simply not full-fledged enthusiastic about it. They’ve been open for four months, and perhaps they’ve yet to hit their stride.
But the restaurant is in a convenient, central place, and provides a decent meal. It’s a good choice for larger groups, although make sure to make a reservation.
And if you like mixing up a Tex-Mex menu with more American standards, then you’ve come to the right place. I personally recommend editing the menu down to less items in order to focus on perfecting them. The net is cast a bit too wide.
El Habanero is currently BYOB, and the staff doesn’t have a firm date as to when their liquor license will come through.
The Dining Rundown: El Habanero Tex-Mex
Where: 315 5th Avenue (at 3rd Street)
Hours: Mondays-Thursdays: 11:30am-11:00pm; Fridays: 11:30am – 11:30pm; Saturdays: 10:30am -11:30pm; Sundays, 10:30pm-10:00pm
Phone: 718-965-9200
Kid Friendly? Yes. High chairs and kid-friendly items are available.
Additional ‘sNice reporting by Mary Bakija.
