Dining Review: Super Gumbo Bros Brings Da Chank-A-Chank To Da County-A-Kings
Treyf marks the spot at The Gumbo Bros. This review marks the first time I have called something “sinfully good”, but it is the best way to describe the Leviticus and Deuteronomy-prohibited masterpieces being churned out by this newcomer.
The Gumbo Bros (224 Atlantic Avenue, between Boerum Place and Court Street) opened just last Friday and they’re already making noise in the neighborhood by bringing a taste of New Orleans to the Brownstone Belt. This is the first restaurant for co-owners Adam Lathan and Clay Boulware, a pair of affable Southerners who met at LSU.
“It’s like a shotgun shack in New Orleans,” said Boulware of the narrow, well-appointed restaurant. The wood for the flooring is from a 150-year-old textile mill in Alabama, while the crown moldings and the wood for the tables also hail from down South.
Boulware added that the chicken and sausage gumbo is his favorite thing on the menu, and after having a cup ($6.50) of my own, it’s hard to argue. The smoky andouille sausage stands out, providing a flavor unlike any other I’ve sampled in this neck of the woods. The gumbo is rounded out with very tender chicken and okra, white rice, and other staples.
The catfish po’ boy ($12) also deserves some space in your stomach for your consideration. It’s served on a generous portion of Leidenheimer French bread, which I’m told is a hallmark of authenticity. Either way, this pillowy, soft canvas is a perfect platform for the crispy, crunchy fried catfish that’s adorned with lettuce and hot sauce.
The roast beef with debris gravy po’ boy ($12) is another strong contender from a menu that is filled with them. The hearty, rich, impossibly tender slathering of beef is marked by the sweetness of its gravy and is topped with lettuce, tomato, and other goodies.
The menu will soon expand to a “full menu”, replete with sides like cajun potato salad, chilled shrimp salad, and rice with the same debris gravy found on the roast beef po’ boy. Additionally, the owners assured me that a weekend morning menu is in the works, and that it will feature beignets, another delicacy indigenous to New Orleans.
“We got started small with markets, pop-ups, catering, and people just loved it and kept asking for more,” said Lathan of the raison d’être for their gumbo-slinging storefront.
Go here. I’m damned certain you’ll want more.
The Restaurant Rundown: The Gumbo Bros.
Address: 224 Atlantic Avenue, between Boerum Place and Court Street
Phone: (917) 909-1471
Try: Anything. Everything.
Avoid: Missing out.
Kids: Fried things and soft white bread? Obvi. However, it’s a smaller space, in case you need room.
