2 Years Old! Der Kom Owners Talk Sausage and Anniversaries
Der Kommissar (559 5th Ave) is a blend of unique and seemingly opposite combinations: a restaurant that serves artisanal Austrian-style sausages, but also has kimchi on the menu. It is a cozy spot to relax and hang out for hours that has a street-facing takeout window.
Somehow it all comes together to create a totally unique experience.
Der Kom is a nod to the traditional Wuerstelstand-a street food institution in Austria, where co-owner Monika Wuhrer was born. These outdoor food stalls are not only a place to grab a quick bite and a beer on the run, they are also gathering places where patrons can hang out, exchange ideas, and socialize.
Along with husband Gary Baldwin, and their business partner Alex Darsey, the trio have set out to create an Austrian destination for good beer and authentic sausages.
“There’s a little bit of Texas here also,” Gary (who hails from Houston) told us, pointing out the simple tray and butcher paper presentation of my sausage sampler. “This is the way they serve BBQ in Texas.”
As they approach their two-year anniversary, Gary remembers his personal mandate for opening a restaurant.
“Let’s do something creative, let’s do something different. And I purposely wanted to stay in this neighborhood,” he said.
Different and creative are reoccurring themes with the busy couple. Both accomplished artists. Monika studied sculpture in Vienna, and Gary has an MFA in Photography. Three years ago they started Open Source Gallery, a non-profit art gallery with a mission to share conceptually driven art with the South Slope community.
To top it all off, they are also the parents of three very active young boys.
One of the things that makes Der Kom unique is the limited menu. They concentrate their efforts on a few menu items and they do them extremely well.
“When you focus on a few particular items, the quality rises,” said Monika.
Gary wanted to re-create the spirit of the Wuerstelstand without the kitsch that you find in other Austrian restaurants, and without being tied down to notions of what a Austrian restaurant should be.
“One of the reasons I serve kimchi is because I like kimchi,” he explained.
They offer a rotating menu of artisan sausages, all locally sourced, and a few, like the pakwurst and leberkäse they make in-house.
However, the star of the show is the käsekrainer, a molten-cheese stuffed sausage that is the heart and soul of every Wuerstelstand.
“This is what it is all about,” said Gary. “in fact, you could say that this (käsekrainer) is the reason that this place exists.”
Whether it’s the käsekrainer or any of the other delights that the restaurant offers, Der Kommissar does exist, and we’re glad its here.
Der Kommissar is located at 559 5th Ave. Hours are Monday-Wednesday, 3pm to late, and Thursday-Saturday, 12pm to late. For more information, contact the restaurant at 718-788-0789.
